A few more.......
Welding on the replacement section. I didnt worry about straightening out the replacement area too much as it was going to be the least of my problems. The area came off an old Rx3 race car so had seen its fair share of bumps over the years. In my opinion you can't straighten things like this too much without unintentionally changing the shape. If you do too much work to the new skin, the existing skin (on car) will have dissimilar curves which means that there will be an excessive amount of filler required. You're best to get all the big dents out around the centre of the replacement area, weld in place and then straighten out the new and old together to get a uniform shape. That's easy said than done mainly due to limited access from the inside quarter. I've seen people cut out the inside quarter to get a nicer repair to the skin and then weld the inside area back into place. There is no right or wrong, when you are repairing old stuff it's all about compromise. Pic2, the primer burns away as I tack in the new section to minimise heat in the panel. It will get cleaned up and primed and sealed when Im done. Too much heat and it will be impossible to straighten. This takes a bit of time to complete.
Pic 1, Ive welded down to the swage. This will give you an idea what I intend to do to the inside welded areas to keep moisture out of the joins. Pic 2, welded in, now to try and straighten it as best I can. I'll be using a hammer and dolly, body file, and stud welder.
Pic 1, the sill end cap is in welded in place. Pic 2, The lower section is straight. The bottom flange and wheel arch flange need to be trimmed to match original body work. I still need to place 2 plug welds on the underside area of pic 2 (area where the jack is). Although I have no problem welding upside down i'll be leaving it until I put the shell up on the rotisserie. Saves my neck from days of pain !
What a pain in the F#$%%# ass straightening this out ! Its pretty decent now. My main concern was having a taught panel for the paint stage. If the panel is oil canning it is impossible to block. The welds have been filed and tapped as smooth as I can get them. The centre section in pic 1 had real bad wobbles from trying to straighten it. I pulled, pushed, tapped around, shrunk the wobbles here and there until I got it pretty good. The little dots on top of the welded area are from the stud gun, it's easier to pull it out from the outside than tap it out from the inside. I should get a dolly behind there are tap the area out. The metal in pic 2 didnt require too much being new metal. I worked the weld line below the swage before attaching to the car.
The end result is something Im happy with. Welds filed up and cleaned. Repair area is pretty straight with no oil canning. It was doing my head in. I was lucky the neighbours were away which allows me to beat the welds.... that should be the last of the noisy stuff which I no longer have to time with people being away.
In the end I got what I wanted and I won over stubbornness of the quarter panel
HOWEVER I started at 10:00am and finished at 6:30pm with a 30 minute break...... never AGAIN, was too much for me. If my next car was a Cosmo I'd just bog it up, I dont care if its a Cosmo, R130, Ferrari or a Lemans winning Ford GT40.........bog is the go ! For rust holes some fly screen and a tub of K & H's finest. For bigger holes, the local newspaper and a tin of Digger's fibreglass resin from the hardware shop
Shell panels are now ready for paint process..... I have the nosecone to finish and left guard as far as panel beating goes. I'd love to have the shell in HiFill before the year is out which I think is realistic.