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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 7:49 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 04, 2010 2:42 am
Posts: 76
Location: Adelaide, SA
All jap day in adelaide was a poor event, if only we had an all mazda day. I agree with u john after looking at the first 10 cars they start looking the same.... oh hang on they were all the same shitty r32/3/4 skylines and silvia puss. :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 11:20 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 11:22 pm
Posts: 25
Location: Canberra, NSW
Couldn't agree with you more Gypsy, cruising with other Rotors is so much more fun than car shows!


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 2:31 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Australia
Car shows are ok it's just that I've spent the best part of 5 years looking. I've had enough of looking at mine and other peoples cars, it's time I stopped looking and started driving, hopefully next spring.

Ahhh... just noticed that after the forum update that there are fewer pages in my build thread which has screwed up my photo filing system !

Sorry for the photo quality, my canon camera has gone missing.

Door shells stripped and primed.
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Another door shell photo, hinges will be fitted and aligned on car then removed so that jambs and door shells can be painted then refitted so that skin can be painted with the rest of the car. Pic 2, I was going through my spares and picked out this hood lining. It needs a new retainer strip to be sewn in along the rear windscreen, something that I need to organise with a trimmer.
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A couple of coupe hood linings I have, I'll be using the black one on this car. It needs a very good scrub but it in good shape otherwise. The original linings are reasonably easy to fit as they have hard plastic mounting sections which slip into a grove at both front and rear windscreens. I'll need to lay it out in the sun to stretch out prior to fitting.
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Some new parts. I wasnt happy using a repro Mazda boot badge so have been looking for ages trying to find a good genuine one. You wouldnt believe how hard it is to find a good one. They either have scratched up chrome, rusted into the boot lid making them impossible to remove or the chrome is pitted. If you rechome the cast alloy I believe you end up loosing some of the badge detail. I only bought the repro one after a couple of years of looking failed to find a good enough one to use. To my delight I made an offer on a new/ old stock one and it was mine 8) The repro isnt too bad but is painted incorrectly which makes it look cheap. The other problem with the repro is that the pins at either side need filing to fit the original boot badge holes. With a bit of a makeover the repro could be made to look decent although there are a couple of small areas where the casting differs to the genuine badge (locating pins and the casting hole in the Z).

Also in Pic 1 I finally got my plastic sill trim clips, I bought them slightly oversize so that I could adjust fitment by trimming the ends of the clips. I bought 2 types to try out since they were cheap enough, the only real difference is that one set of clips is slightly wider. They look like they will be a pain to remove once in place but atleast they wont cause any rust like the original ones did. Late model 808's used plastic clips probably for this reason.

Here is a tip for Australian suppliers that sell mould clips online, supply the dimensions. I dont have a day to waste travelling out to a retailer only to then be told they dont stock these particular ones in that retail outlet. I got these from the USA, 95% of clips sold had dimensions.

Finally in Pic 2 Im stuffing around with various pickup modules to build a custom high energy ignition so that I can retain the twin distributors. There a place that builds electronic ignitions in Victoria however these are not High Energy. I wanted to a high performance ignition system to suit my modified Weber fed 10a engine, if my idea fails I'll just settle for the standard electronic conversion. If I get my idea to work it shouldnt cost more than $100 !
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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 7:45 pm 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Australia
Could anyone with a nice and straight rx3 or 808 coupe measure their panel gaps for the following 2 areas.

between front guard and door
between door and rear quarter panel

Lining everything up for a final block and adjustment is doing my head in. Have to wait for a mate to come by to give us a hand. 2 person job really. Once everything is good doors come off again so car can have jambs painted. Refitting them again to shell for paint will be lots of fun without scratching anything. Im thinking to mask painted surfaces when refitting for final time to prevent any grief.

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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:53 pm
Posts: 366
Location: Adelaide
Probably not a bad idea to mask them. I lines my jambs with towels and used some bits of soft foam padding to prevent scratching. Must admit, I got a couple in the passenger side, but being acrylic, a quick rub back and touch up and you would never know. When I painted the outside of the shell, I made sure I got a good squirt of clear up into the already cleared jambs to help melt the touch up in and it is spot on.

Can't wait to see yours painted Gypsy, will look great!!

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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 12:40 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:44 am
Posts: 41
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Hi Gypsy, the panel gap that I have on my Coupe is 5mm, for the 2 questioned areas, this should be very accurate as it is a 100 000klm no accident damaged car that was all pre measured before disassembly to get the correct panel fitment. Hope this helps towards the resto of your Coupe. Cheers...

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Mazda 808 1975 Super Deluxe Coupe
Mazda 808 1977 Station Wagon
Mazda 929 HC 4 Door Hardtop
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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 1:50 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Australia
Yes, I cant wait to see mine painted as well. It's so close yet not quite there yet unfortunately. Things like lining up panels take forever by yourself. As Ive already mentioned I have a friend who will give me a hand to get the doors to sit right. Over the weekend I bought a propane gas heater for the garage to make the garage bearable instead of feeling like you're sitting in a freezer. With a high today of 15deg, it made the entire garage nice and warm in 5 - 10 minutes. I think if i left it on it would have been nice and toasty in 15min :)

Thanks for the gap measurement 808coupe, would you mind also measuring between the bottom of the door and sill panel ? I cant get enough of your car, its just sooo nice.... looks perfect in everyway. Unfortunately I dont see many 808 coupes at all these days, people like converting them into Rx3s which is a real shame. They look just as good as an Rx3 if you ask me. Age has done a funny thing to my brain over the years, the piston variants dont need rotary engines to make them special. There is a car on AR that was an interesting read that I saw not too long ago, it was a custom built 1.4lt 1300 coupe (sedan shape), with a small turbo charger. I wish modifiers would think outside the square like that guy did ! He had me intrigued for a couple of hours :)


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2011 2:25 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:44 am
Posts: 41
Location: Brisbane, Australia
That is the reason that it was Restored as a piston 808 as at the time, and still even today, 808's are not left standard. RX3's are beyond most peoples reach, so yes once an 808 that is rotorised it will normally not be returned to piston power. Yes I enjoy a good rotor as well don't get me wrong. But knowing everytime you see an 8OH with a rotor conversion I have a smile that comes to me that what I have done is for the Good of the Mazda movement in Australia.
It has been saved.

Gypsy the door to sill gap is also 5mm.

Cheers....

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Mazda 808 1977 Station Wagon
Mazda 929 HC 4 Door Hardtop
Mazda 6 2008 Sedan


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2011 4:00 pm 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Australia
No major update, Im working on bits and pieces over the cold winter months.

After looking around to have the dashtop repaired and reskinned I ended up giving the job to the Dashboard Doctor in Melbourne. I also dropped off the metal backing that goes between the dash pad and the windscreen to ensure they got everything to fit 100%. Im happy, they did a great job. You cant beat that brand new look.
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Before I drove down I went through my boxes of spares and picked out 4 armrests. The armrests normally sag and separate around the screw holes. I dropped off 2 to be repaired and the other 2 were pretty good so just had those refreshed with some new colour.
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These are a very good set of 12a front door trims that I bought. I've only seen one better set and they came on a $30,000 Rx3 coupe. Nice car it was, but hard to justify buying the car just for the trims :) 10a models had the carpet at the bottom corners, I could easily have a trimmer modify them so they look the same but to be honest Im not a fan of 70's loop pile carpet. For that reason I'll leave them the way they are. The backing boards are unmarked and like new which is rare, they are not faded or sun damaged and the chrome strips are like new. Aside from dusting they I will remove the vinyl from the back boards to repad the upper areas to make them look a little more plump. You can feel the staples through the vinyl that attach the top metal strips to the back boards as well. Its a little insurance so the staples never catch or wear the vinyl.
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In pic 1, along the door trim edge is the original dressing strip. Its the only set of trims I have ever seen with the dressing strip. To be honest I was never aware that there was a dressing strip along the edge of the trims. Its come away, just need to push the staples back in with a little adhesive. Pic2, managed to find some more genuine Mazda weather strips.... Still need a few more items, I doubt I'll find a complete genuine set. There are a few on Yahoo auctions at the moment, stuff normally goes for a small fortune. I doubt the quality would be much different to the repro rubbers these days, however if a find more genuine rubbers at a reasonable price I will buy them.
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Repairing the fuel cap, there are 2 types. The early type have a fuel lid holder the later type dont. The early type always seem to rust between the 2 inner and outer panels that are glued together. Here Ive blasted the inner panel, the black stuff is not rust but left over factory adhesive. I partially blasted the outer skin, tried tacking the pin holes closed with an oxy, no go so I stopped. I'll fix it with the MIG, tap it straight, blast the welds clean, epoxy prime it, sikaflex the 2 panels together then Hi Fill for paint. Ive been told that sedan and coupe fuel lids are different, but I have my doubts. I'll bolt it to the car before I go too much further just to make sure.
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There are a few other nice touches that Im thinking about but you'll have to wait for those :) I think the next thing on my hit list is to give the diff and rear brakes an overhaul. Also need to make time to go through a wrecking yard for a few other 70's looking bits to complete the look Im after. Interior is almost done which is a good thing, it will make reassembly much faster.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:32 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Australia
sneak peak.... wont be posting anything for quite a while so don't ask.

literally "off the gun" the day after fully cured. Yet to be compounded and buffed.... Will need to put up before roof photos, and some info on my learning about painting. There is quite a bit to painting, if you have no patience forget about giving it a go. It is really a trade in its own right that can drive you totally nuts. My hats goes off to you show car painters, or any good painter for that matter. And yes this is my work, continuing with the DIY project theme. Overall Im happy. Turned out a little better than factory, so much for an authentic style resto ! There is still lots of time for me to stuff things up, dont worry about that.....

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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 5:04 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:53 pm
Posts: 366
Location: Adelaide
:lol: Nice Gypsy, Nice!!

Looking forward to the pics......

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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 3:10 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Australia
As soon as I get my act together Benn, its starting to come together all of a sudden. Engine is done and ready to be dropped in as well. Period 70s style partial ex improved production engine with porting very similar to how mazda built them. New stat gears, aluminium flywheel, single side seal rotors, auto crank with matching factory balanced weights, period reduced water pump drive to stop water cavitating, 2 piece carbon apexes, bridge ported fed by a 48 ida weber carb. 5 speed was done some time ago. Can't wait to hear it. I've also got a factory standard setup if I ever want a original setup. Engine parts were blasted prior to assembly for that new look.

How's the rx2 progressing ?

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viewtopic.php?f=10&t=17421


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 8:10 am 
Mild Cam
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Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2010 2:31 pm
Posts: 1602
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
gypsy wrote:
As soon as I get my act together Benn, its starting to come together all of a sudden. Engine is done and ready to be dropped in as well. Period 70s style partial ex improved production engine with porting very similar to how mazda built them. New stat gears, aluminium flywheel, single side seal rotors, auto crank with matching factory balanced weights, period reduced water pump drive to stop water cavitating, 2 piece carbon apexes, bridge ported fed by a 48 ida weber carb. 5 speed was done some time ago. Can't wait to hear it. I've also got a factory standard setup if I ever want a original setup. Engine parts were blasted prior to assembly for that new look.


I know the engine's going to look just as good as the rest of this build...I can't wait to see that engine bay...

At least I have something to think about when I drift off to sleep every night! :lol:

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1988 Mazda RX7
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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 3:39 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:53 pm
Posts: 366
Location: Adelaide
gypsy wrote:
As soon as I get my act together Benn, its starting to come together all of a sudden. Engine is done and ready to be dropped in as well. Period 70s style partial ex improved production engine with porting very similar to how mazda built them. New stat gears, aluminium flywheel, single side seal rotors, auto crank with matching factory balanced weights, period reduced water pump drive to stop water cavitating, 2 piece carbon apexes, bridge ported fed by a 48 ida weber carb. 5 speed was done some time ago. Can't wait to hear it. I've also got a factory standard setup if I ever want a original setup. Engine parts were blasted prior to assembly for that new look.

How's the rx2 progressing ?


Ha Ha....It's not......

Haven't touched it in weeks. Need a break from it for a bit. It's doing my head in, so I will have a break and then get back into it....starting with respraying the bonnet.....

Mate, yours will hit the road way before mine :D

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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 1:50 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Australia
You need to set some sort of goal to push on otherwise it will be sitting there for another 5 years.

I dont know if I'll make it in that time frame but I certainly dont want to spend another summer doing bodywork. You have to remember Benn I bought boxes and boxes of bits not an actual car ! I started going through trying to find the right screws, nuts and bolts for the doors so I could send them off to be anodised. I've got boxes of stuff.. dont know where all these parts are as I never pulled the car apart.


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 1:43 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Australia
Well I reached a bit of a milestone with the shell almost done. To say its been a hard slog would be a great understatement ! I was intending on keeping things close to my chest until further progress was made but that could be another 2 years away :lol: As much as I'd love to say that I did it all on my own, that would be untrue. There are a number of people that I need to thank for helping get the bodywork and paint looking so good. I think the shell has turned out more than respectable and Im happy with my efforts !

The bodywork journey started over 5 years ago when I had a panel beater by the name of Brad come look at it to get things started in his spare time. Well needless to say, it was a little too much for him to do on the side and I think you've all seen why :lol: Mate I can only now imagine what you were thinking at the time :lol: Anyhow thats how it all began.


Big thanks to the following people and for taking the time to show me stuff.

Ricky from Mazbitz, cant say enough about this guy. Showed me more than a thing or two.... nothing was ever a problem and really if it wasnt for you I'd be struggling for parts, advise and technique on how to do some things.

Dennis (Rotary Lover), I can now stop hassling you regarding painting :lol:

Dave (Restoremaz), you wont find a bigger Mazda enthusiast/ restorer anywhere on the planet. I appreciate you showing me how you do things when I pop down. My mind is always running a millon miles an hour trying to remember everything !

Barry from the heart of Australia's rotor land, Sydney's inner West. I havent seen so many Rx3s under the one roof :lol: Thanks for the run down on painting. If it wasnt for you I would have never given it a go, Im glad I did. No better way to pass a day, eating Kebabs and fixing Rx3s :lol:

Andy, Vince and Greg from Docklands TAFE.... nothing was ever too hard for these guys in the body department., showed me more than a thing or two and are the people who gave us a head start in the metal work department. Its amazing what these guys can make from nothing.

..........onto the update.

These are the products used to paint the car. Like always read the safety sheets. Pic 1, top left HiFill, bottom left paint, reducer for mixing the various products, SRA thinner for blending, p25 is a hardener (different ones for different temps), finally spray putty and hardener. Pic 2 is a cheaper line of products but still very good, Lesonal Epoxy primer for bare steel, reducer and hardener. To give you an idea on price differences between brands. 5L of Lesonal reducer is approx $40, 5L in Sikkens is around $180. Paint can get very expensive. I went for a 2 pak solid (no clear) for a more authentic type finish because thats what I wanted.
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I used an Iwata W400 for painting, pretty standard issue. I use different spray guns for primers as they need larger fluid tips. The paint manufacturer will normally recommend the fluid tip to use for their products. Pic 2 after painting the car is rubbed back with 2000 wet then with 3000 wet on a DA sander. The finer the scratches the easier compounding will be. Change paper regularly as well as use clean water to avoid more scratches.
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I use a soft interface backing pad on the back of the 3000 pad that attaches to the DA sander. The 3000 pads come in a box of 10. Pic 2, Im using a water based cutting compound as my first step towards polishing. This is matched with a compounding foam pad. You use different pads with different products. The foam isnt as aggressive as a wool pad however both can do serious damage to both you and the car if the pad catches an edge. I'll be doing the polishing using a rotary polisher.
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Everything was fitted and aligned prior to painting, last thing I wanted was mismatched door lines. They will be painted separately to make things easier for a novice like me. Doors jambs, door shells, boot, and engine bay were painted first.
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You can see jambs and inside doors have been done. Pic 2, soft edge tape is then used to stop any hard lines from appearing. Pic2 a close up, yes that is the adhesive coming away from the foam not the paint ! Car was being rubbed back with 2000 wet in those photos.
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I couldnt help myself, had to add the Rx3 badge even if only temporarily. If theres one thing I like about Rx3s, the Rx3 badge and the 3 round lights are a must have, everything else doesn't matter ! Quarter has been compounded, it'll be polished when I finish everything else off... looking damn good I think 8)
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This update should hopefully make a few others hurry up ! Car is painted in Aurora white which is a greeny white. This is this cars original colour and Im happy with it. The car has been red, blue and metallic green in the past. I think its nice that its finally back in the right colour. The more I look at it the morew I realise there is so much more to do and I think I was being over optimistic thinking it'll be finished this year. Ive started sorting through things to drop them off at the platers. We'll see how I go from there.... another 5 years :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 2:25 am 

Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2010 6:13 am
Posts: 68
Location: Melbourne Australia
Great stuff John :D

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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 3:48 am 

Joined: Sun Jan 02, 2011 8:18 pm
Posts: 44
Location: Perth, Australia
Absolutely amazing.. Love it!


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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 5:30 am 

Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:07 am
Posts: 55
Location: s.a.
wow nice job so far m8 have been watch n this build for some time now :tu:

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 Post subject: Re: 1973 Mazda Rx3
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 1:23 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:09 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Australia
Sorted out the problem side with the guard gaps, Ive now got the 5 - 6mm gap. The door edge doesn't seem to follow the guard edge 100% which is why there is a little variation. A little patience and some swearing seemed to help this time ! Guards now good for primer and the doors are ready for paint :) Primer and paint should drop that gap slightly. The car is starting to look really good.

It's back on its wheels, finishing off the beaver panel, need to clean up and spray some primer in the cabin then I can start putting it together as apposed to pulling it apart which has been the case for past 5 years.

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Ive just picked up my original door trims from the trimmer, one side had a chemical dropped on the vinyl causing it to stretch in 3 areas making it look not so good. I've also had a couple of handbrake boots made using an original and the headrests tightened on the front seats. The door trims have also been reattached to the backboards. Chris from Chris O'Shea trimmers did a such a good job that Im giving him a free plug :)

Apart from that the door guts and a heap of other parts have been dropped off for zincing and then some gold chromate dipping. The rear bar has been sent away to be straightened and chromed. I'll be calling Mazda for some original style rubber suspension bushes all round and painting the diff housing. I have another which will be used, the one in the car is only temporary. I was looking at selling the spare nosecone I have in storage but after seeing the metal repro ones first hand I think I'll be keeping it as a spare ! For your $800 repro nosecone you get something that you couldnt use in a million years without unpicking all the spot welds and doing some serious metal work. Sort of defeats the purpose as it would cost 2x that of fixing a rusted out one. There wasnt one good thing about it.... massive 3cm gaps around an original grill, the headlight bezel areas were way out, the top lines were no where near sharp enough, and the top was also out of shape at both ends........ worse than the guard I had which I thought was impossible :shock:

The only repro part on the entire car is the super deluxe badges , however they actually look good. Not sure if I'll be using them though. Got a bit of time to decide what badges the car will be wearing. I'm also looking into doing some plastic chroming on my own, doing some reading and experimentation at the moment on that front. I have a set of original wheels that Restoremaz did some time ago, they be replacing the Rx4 wheels. A better update will be put up when I have a more time.


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