1970 Subaru FF-1 Project car

1978 ke30 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 27, 2011 4:03 pm

That thing is beautiful! I wanna see the motor in there soooo bad!

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Thu Jan 27, 2011 6:50 pm

I've got at least a half dozen problems to solve before I can even try to get the motor in there

Garant · **Posted:** Sun Jan 30, 2011 8:59 am

sister car found in az ..

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Mon Jan 31, 2011 1:51 am

Long story about that photo. That photo was the FIRST time I ever saw a picture of an FF-1, quite a few years ago.

That junkyard shortly after closed and scraped all the cars, including that one

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Thu Feb 03, 2011 3:57 pm

OK, I made a "simple" list of what needs to be done to the car at this point.

If anyone can help with anything on the list, please let me know!

[b\Restore Gas Tank (unknown cost)
Install Fuel pipe (remove rear suspension to accomplish)
*While rear suspension uninstalled, adjust ride height of suspension arms and put anti-corrosion compound in wheel cylinders (forgot name)
Install Gas Tank (need the soft rubber compound used between tank and car body, unknown composition)

Glass/Molding/Doors (can be done AFTER engine/later items, but ready to do most of these now)
-Restore/remove water drops on all glass IE clean up glass (Need tips for glass cleaning)
-Install rear glass, possibly front glass (clean up molding before install)
-Molding for door trim/window trim (~$200 know what to buy now)
-Molding for rear trunk (~$100 don't know which to use)
-Glass Bedding "U" channel for front Vent windows (Unknown cost, not much required)
*install on to window frames when done
-Install window regulator, window frame, with glass simultaneously on to each door
-Rebuild rear side windows for later installation

Engine (EA63 dry sleeve new block, EA62 used heads):
-Valve job on heads ~$150
*if using weber manifold, shave heads 2mm each side, possibly requires custom pistons or shaved/dished pistons to run weber manifold due to C/R (+$50-100)
*if using stock manifold with weber 32/36, no modification required (Must sell weber manifold, buy new 32/36 kit)
-Swap camshaft in shortblock (Don't really want to do this myself, don't want to make a mistake)
-Need New distributor (Electronic, ~83? EA81 FWD, ~$150-200)

Transmission/Engine mounting/Front Brakes:
-Need to custom build new engine mounts somehow (Unknown cost)
1) Custom gearbox (83 gears, 72 FF1 case) already assembled:
-Custom rear transmission mount (Unknown cost, don't know what to do for this)
-Custom clutch to mount to 83 main shaft (Unknown cost, still not sure what to do)
-Figure out which bell housing to use (possible issue with mounting to EA63 block)
2) Rebuild ORIGINAL transmission (Requires more cleaning time, lots of rebuild time, not too difficult though):
-Check bell housings to see what fits, no other modification required (possible issue with mounting to EA63 block)
*Install front brakes and components (Need to clean/restore brakes)
*Install all engine related components (distributor, manifold, alternator,etc.)
*Connect all components (clutch pedal, throttle, etc.)
Note: All engine/etc. components already purchased, excluding distributor

Wiring (Unknown cost, don't know if to replace all or use old wiring)
Fuel Lines/Fuel system (Unknown cost, need all new lines and fuel system components)
Brake Lines (Unknown cost, need new lines throughout car)

Install front fenders and other items (corner lights) permanently

New custom radiator with fan (Unknown cost)
Custom front bracket to mount radiator and additional lateral support (Horn mounts too)

Interior:
-Dash needs cloth or leather (or alcantra) cover to cover imperfections (unknown cost)
*Matching upholstery for other interior parts (unknown cost)
-Tachometer (large, still researching size, ~$100)
*Possibly other gauges where old radio slot was (~$150-300)
-Door, trunk, etc. paneling with upholstery (Unknown cost, can be rather inexpensive if done myself, can do this part easily, not concerned about it)
-Roof panel (something simple, it will be one piece that slides in and taped to roof)
-SEATS! Still deciding, probably Corbeau classics or something inexpensive and small (must be 20" or under in width! $500-1500)
-Seat belts, Schroth Rally-4 harnesses (~$300)[/b]

BTW, I plan on rolling the car out Saturday to take more photos.

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Sat Feb 05, 2011 3:41 pm

Turned the car around today, took picks before I did:

Had some WRX pedal covers I used:

I do have a problem with the doors... The passenger side fit PERFECT. Meanwhile, I can't get the driver side to close properly. The post it slams into won't go any farther in, and I think its preventing the door from being 100% closed:

john · **Posted:** Sat Feb 05, 2011 3:48 pm

Kostamojen wrote:

I do have a problem with the doors... I can't get the driver side to close properly. The post it slams into won't go any farther in, and I think its preventing the door from being 100% closed...

Can the latch assembly on the door be moved "out" any?

Could it be the guide plate below the latch that is out of adjustment?

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Sat Feb 05, 2011 5:23 pm

The guide plate is as far in as it will go, and I tried adjusting the latch too. Neither can go any farther.

The spot where the plate mounts to has these metal "bars" inside the door that slide inside a bracket area. I might be able to hammer on the plate a bit and it might move it, but its risky...

It doesnt need to go far though, maybe a few mm at most.

john · **Posted:** Sat Feb 05, 2011 6:20 pm

Got a photo of the door side of the latch and one of the body side?

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Sat Feb 05, 2011 7:53 pm

Here is the latch and the body side guide:

Here is the inside of the body where the guide bolts on:

redr2 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 05, 2011 8:11 pm

my Honda never did either...mine was out way more than that and to be honest.....you will be the only one to notice anyway. I doubt they were perfect from the factory either.

PS - Love the build.

john · **Posted:** Sat Feb 05, 2011 9:07 pm

redr2 wrote:

I doubt they were perfect from the factory either.

Exactly.

I think some of us would be shocked how bad the panel fitment was on these cars when new...

I was looking at the hood on my B210 today thinking, "it kinda sucks that it doesn't line up perfectly". After fighting it for 20 minutes, it's still not perfect. And probably never will be.

Maybe I'm crazy but that one on the right looks like it has room to move? Slot the mounting holes?

Kostamojen wrote:

Here is the latch and the body side guide:

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Sat Feb 05, 2011 11:06 pm

I will have to slot the holes behind the panel, if you can see in that photo, the bolts are all the way up against the metal as far as they can go.

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Sat Feb 05, 2011 11:08 pm

redr2 wrote:

my Honda never did either...mine was out way more than that and to be honest.....you will be the only one to notice anyway. I doubt they were perfect from the factory either.

PS - Love the build.

I went back and looked at Day 1 photos... The fender was damaged due to the door, or something hit it, not sure. But otherwise it was pretty flush.

However, the bottom wasn't that flush... Good news is the door also has adjustment for that so it should be able to be rather flush.

But ya, so far the gaps are rather large, which I expected, and uneven in spots. My main goal is to make sure everything opens/closes/shuts properly, and the driver door is the only thing that isn't do that right now.

john · **Posted:** Sun Feb 06, 2011 3:17 pm

Kostamojen wrote:

I will have to slot the holes behind the panel, if you can see in that photo, the bolts are all the way up against the metal as far as they can go.

If you want it to be perfect, you know what you got to do.

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Mon Feb 07, 2011 3:40 pm

I looked closer, figured out I couldn't slot the holes any more due to the metal plate inside being as far as it would go...

SO, I did more looking and adjusting with the door, figured out that the slider wasn't going in all the way, and dremeled it out a bit and now it fits a bit better (still not as good as the passenger side, but good enough for now).

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Tue Feb 08, 2011 2:47 pm

Found the perfect solution for cleaning the glass

And its only $2 at home depot! Works fantastic!!! All the water spots and dirt/mineral buildups are gone.

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Wed Feb 09, 2011 7:11 pm

What do you guys think about using T-bars for bumpers?

john · **Posted:** Wed Feb 09, 2011 8:10 pm

In the front, I think it would look pretty cool. :tu:

Kostamojen · **Posted:** Thu Feb 10, 2011 1:18 pm

In order to to get the car legally drivable, it will have to have a bumper of some kind in the rear.

1970 Subaru FF-1 Project car

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