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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 5:18 am 
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That's a good tip. I'm pretty sure that what I need are 750 pound springs in a 220mm uncompressed length, with Datto-compatible OD.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 9:57 pm 
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Check with King springs too, they are a OZ company, makes some hellava strong springs for the Subie crowd

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Or does he need help jiggling it? :P


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 8:14 pm 

Joined: Fri Apr 24, 2009 4:04 pm
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Location: Santa Rosa/Chico, CA
Kev, I have thoroughly enjoyed reading your build ever since it was posted on buildthreads. You attention to detail in you posts make the thread very nice to read.

Just an idea concerning your spring situation. I am a 510 owner and I use 3" id coilover springs in the rear of my car. I a using a 16" 600# spring cut in half to produce two ~8.5" long 1200# springs. I don't know if the ID of the skyline springs and 510 springs are the same, but if they are it is another possibility, and it is pretty inexpensive as well.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 10:39 pm 
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That's an interesting suggestion....I think the OD of the springs would be the same as 510

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 1:58 pm 
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Any new updates on the car? :tu:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 6:10 pm 
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Erm, still haven't installed the new splashguard and cowl rubber seals, but I have ordered an MSD 6A, I'm thinking by boosting the spark, I'll maybe manage to cover some of the low rpm inefficiency since the bigger chokes went into the Webers.

Should be winging its way to Sydney from JEGS right now :)

Also managed to track down one of the few remaining Nismo LSDs for the older R180 diff, Nismo only makes batches every few years and there aren't many left floating around. The price reflects its rarity however :D hence my hesitation. But I am looking into other alternatives, including an aussie-made Torsen unit: http://members.optushome.com.au/amaxeng/five10/diff.htm

It'll be somewhat cheaper than the Nismo, but I'm still thinking about it...

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 6:43 am 
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Price isnt too bad on the Torsen. Do the Nismo ones sell for a lot more?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 7:24 am 
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Norcal510 wrote:
Price isnt too bad on the Torsen. Do the Nismo ones sell for a lot more?

Somewhat :) About US$1800.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 9:22 am 
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Update!

Since the Webers were upgraded to the larger 36mm chokes, I've enjoyed the extra 20hp at the top end, but at the bottom end, where let's face it, you spend most of the time in everyday driving, it was, well...only ok. Sure it pulled decently if you "rolled" onto the throttle below 4000rpm instead of stomping on it, but even so, you could feel the little hiccups and kinks at low rpm. I was starting to get used to it, but I decided to get around the problem by cheating :)

One thing that seemed to help a lot with the low rpm running was ignition advance. The more, the better, but anything more than 12deg base/26max and I'd get some pinging at 4000rpm. So I had the idea of fitting an MSD 6A CDI unit. As you can see, it's a big sucker. US$165 (about A$280 delivered) from JEGS.
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The spot near the coil seemed logical, but it meant moving some things around. To free up space for the radiator overflow bottle, I'd already relocated a few relays around, but it looks like those relays have to move again to make space for the MSA 6A.
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It may seem like there's a mess of wiring here but it's actually quite easy to wire up. There's just 6 wires to worry about. One wire is the power feed for the MSD unit, and goes directly to battery. Another is a ground (I put it onto the engine block). Two wires go to the dizzy, and two go to power the coil. Basically the coil takes all its juice from (and grounds to..) the MSD unit and is disconnected from the car's loom. The ignition-on power wire from the stock loom gets spliced into the trigger wire for the MSD (which goes to the +ve terminal on the dizzy).
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How it works is that the MSD unit takes power straight from the battery, and has capacitors which store up current in between the firing cycles: the idea is that the stored juice is released in one big go, giving you a bigger zap. The electronic dizzy's magnetic pickups send a trigger signal to the MSD 6A, which then fires the coil.

The capacitive discharge means that you get a considerably bigger spark, but in addition, at lower rpms the MSD 6A will actually fire multiple sparks. So the idea is that not only do you get a bigger spark, but at low revs you will get about 10 rapid-fire sparks over a period of about 20 degrees of crank rotation. You know...just to make sure the job's done :)
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So I figured that this gadget might help to fill in the driveability holes, now that the Webers were not as efficient at low rpm. If adding more ignition advance helps, then maybe this spark-increasing device would have the same effect? The more I looked into it, the more it seemed to be the sort of overkill that the Hako needs at low revs.
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Well that was the theory...it didn't take long to install, once I'd made room for it in the engine bay. As you can see, I've moved some of those relays to a new spot under the MSD unit. Wiring was pretty straightforward, and the only deviation I made to the instructions was that I ran the main power feed thru a 15A fuse block (the instructions say the MSD has an internal fuse). The only thing I didn't like about the install in hind sight is that the tacho signal wire has to plug into the side of the MSD. Plugging the tach signal it to the negative post of the coil doesn't work anymore, presumably because the multiple sparks fire the coil many more times than usual, and so that will confuse the tach (which works by counting the sparks). I think it's a little ugly to have that straggly orange wire wiggle around to the top like that.
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But...it seems to work. I've only had the chance to take it for a quick spin around the block, but it seems that I can now floor it at low rpm and it'll just pick up smoothly without any stumbles. And there does seem to be a lttile bit more grunt in the midrange too. The instructions say that I can now open up the spark plug gap to take advantage of the bigger zap, and I'll definitely give that a go, and I reckon it'll be interesting to fire up the wideband sensor to see if the fuel curve is smoother too (it certainly feels like most of the kinks have been ironed out now).

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 3:31 am 
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Good luck! Saw these, thought of your car...

Image
Image
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The rear disks I get, but tell me about an electrickery water-pump (being an air-cooled guy previously). See ya! Skj.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 5:17 am 
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Kuroneko wrote:
The rear disks I get, but tell me about an electrickery water-pump (being an air-cooled guy previously). See ya! Skj.


Those suspension arms will cost an arm (LOL) and a leg to ship to Oz :)

The electric water pump is to save on pumping losses from having to drive the conventional belt-driven water pump.

Even if there wasn't a water pump at all, there is a thermo-siphon effect going on in the engine, where hot water rises, and it'll create a mild current effect which will circulate the water around into the radiator and back. The problem is, it's not a strong enough effect for cooling all the time.

So the electric water pump can be hooked up to a thermoswitch, so that when the engine is fairly cool, the pump can be turned off and you can rely on the thermosiphon effect. It's a trick thing, but is something for when you really, really must have that very last 5hp lurking in the engine :D

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 11:50 pm 
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Location: New South Wales, Australia
Must have last 5 hp!
So, your spark gizmo works ok?
Good improvement?
Looks fairly easy to fit too.
Lets get a look at the AFRs.

Hooks

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 12:08 am 
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31GUN wrote:
So, your spark gizmo works ok?
Good improvement?
Looks fairly easy to fit too.
Lets get a look at the AFRs.

Yeah, I will have to plot another AFR chart methinks.

So far on the basis of that one drive on Saturday night, it seems to work really well. I can stomp the throttle to the floor at low rpm and it'll just pull smoothly, and the response just seems more...clean.

It seems to be a fairly time-honoured mod for oldschool V8s, but on the basis of the experience so far, I'd recommend it as a good mod for anyone with big carbs on a J-nostalgic with driveability problems.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 8:32 am 
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Does it work well on 4 cylinder engines? I dunno kev (im a bit duhh, when it comes to these things... :? If so, maybe ill have it listed on my future mods :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:44 pm 
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PathFindeR wrote:
Does it work well on 4 cylinder engines? I dunno kev (im a bit duhh, when it comes to these things... :? If so, maybe ill have it listed on my future mods :wink:


I think it's one of those things. If your motor is running sweet then I think it's one of those mods which might show no gains at all. But if you're a bit overcammed and overcarbed, and half your fuel shoots out your exhaust as unburnt :) then I'd say yes, it is a mod that will help.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 7:35 pm 
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I run a MSD 6AL on my Alfa and it has made it much happier. I'd put it back on my Datsun if I could get it to work with my EI distributor. For what ever reason, it works great with points, and doesn't do a thing with the EI. I've tried every way possible to get it to work and I get nothing. By the way I have a B210 distributor with a Roadster drive foot attached to it. Internally its just like the Z EI setup, but with a different advance curve.

Will

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 8:07 pm 
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That's strange Will, mine is basically a 280ZX EI dizzy. I hooked it up according to the wiring diagram for Pertronix in the MSD instructions

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 Post subject: GGG ... Greetings from Thailand ... GGG
PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 8:28 pm 

Joined: Sat Jun 07, 2008 2:33 am
Posts: 29
Location: Bangkok, THAILAND
Hi Kev & Friends,


Man...it's been a loooooong time since my last visit here.

How've you been Kev, I see that HAKO still gives her best for your enjoyments.


Me, I have 2 rides completed ; one took 4 years, another 4 months ... and a little change .


May I ......


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssMko-t_ ... _embedded#!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEF-v0VKHCk


No, they aren't of Japanese origin, but I'm sure you'd agree that they may sit in a little corner of your heart !


Visit me here...my site ... deals in Muscle Cars from the past......

http://musclecarthailand.com/



All the very best to you & family.

Cheers,


George Manont




.


Last edited by George Manont on Sun Aug 29, 2010 8:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 8:36 pm 
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Hey George, long time no see :D Very nice Mustang too

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 7:48 am 
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Lately I've been noticing something a little weird. When I reverse, I feel a bit of a muffled clunk coming from the back end. And when I'm accelerating and backing off sharply in 1st gear, I feel it again.

In the Hako, the front of the diff is hardbolted to the suspension subframe, and the back of the diff is supported by this transverse bar called the Moustache Bar, for obvious reasons. I was thinking that maybe the bushings in the ends of the moustache bar were gone, and so the back of the diff is thudding up and down against those rubber snubbers as it reacts to the torque of accel and decel.
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Datsunfreak (Technical Editor John Roper from the magazine) reckoned that the end of the moustache bar isn't meant to be sitting on the lower snubber like that, and is meant to be more like in the middle. So it looked like those bushings have to be replaced.
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Getting the moustache bar off wasn't easy...unbolting it at the bushing end is easy, but it locates to the diff via these two studs, and so the protruding studs prevent you from dropping the bar down vertically. Unbolting the front of the diff to ease it fwd's so that the studs can slide out seemed like the hard way to do it, so I decided to try to unscrew the studs by locking two nuts together, and unscrewing the inner nut. The steel stud was pretty corroded to the alloy diff casing, so this part was a bit of a pain, as it was one of those things where it was really tight to unscrew, bit by bit all the way.
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But in the end the bar's off...
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And on closer inspection the bushes do look a bit ruined, the rubber has torn clear of the metal crushtube in the middle.
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To remove the bushes, first we cut off the rubber lip that mushrooms out on one side.
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And for the next step, say hello to my little friend :) It's a 6ton hydraulic press! Basically it's just an upside down trolley jack, as you pull this lever, the piston comes down, and there is a beam and some sturdy metal plates below to brace things against. It's not a very hi-quality one, and was inexpensive (some might say...super-cheap, even..aussies will get this :D ) but I figure I'm only going to use it a few times a year to press out a few wheel bearings and suspension bushes, so it didn't make sense to buy a really expensive one.
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Take a closer look, and the bushing (yes I pushed out the centre tube just for fun) has a few concentric metal tubes. The outer one is the bushing's outer metal jacket, and the inner one is the one we will be pushing out.
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Brace the moustache bar carefully in the press, and then pick a socket that's just the right diameter to push on the metal tube of the inner bush. You'll notice that I've got clamps holding down the metal plates under the 'bar...when you're working, everything's under tremendous pressure, so the clamps are to prevent the plates from slipping out and flying across the workshop, narrowly missing your head (um...appparently).
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The press makes light work of pushing out the inner bush.
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What's left is the outer bush jacket, which is in 2 pieces, so it's easy to tap out with a chisel and hammer
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...the remains of the diff bushes.
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Then I cleaned up the inside of the tube with a wire brush
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And the new poly bushes (from SSS Automotive) just press in by hand.
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The rejuvenated moustache bar in place! You'll also notice that I didn't put the stock diff studs back in place, but I used bolts instead. So the next time, I can just take out the bolts and the moustach bar will just drop down, which will make diff removal easier too. (This was also a Datsunfreak suggestion)
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...and that's where we're at...I'll see how she drives tomorrow, but I'm sure it'll be better than it was...

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