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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 3:31 am 
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Location: Shibuya-ku
Good luck! Saw these, thought of your car...

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The rear disks I get, but tell me about an electrickery water-pump (being an air-cooled guy previously). See ya! Skj.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 5:17 am 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Kuroneko wrote:
The rear disks I get, but tell me about an electrickery water-pump (being an air-cooled guy previously). See ya! Skj.


Those suspension arms will cost an arm (LOL) and a leg to ship to Oz :)

The electric water pump is to save on pumping losses from having to drive the conventional belt-driven water pump.

Even if there wasn't a water pump at all, there is a thermo-siphon effect going on in the engine, where hot water rises, and it'll create a mild current effect which will circulate the water around into the radiator and back. The problem is, it's not a strong enough effect for cooling all the time.

So the electric water pump can be hooked up to a thermoswitch, so that when the engine is fairly cool, the pump can be turned off and you can rely on the thermosiphon effect. It's a trick thing, but is something for when you really, really must have that very last 5hp lurking in the engine :D

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No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 11:50 pm 
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Location: New South Wales, Australia
Must have last 5 hp!
So, your spark gizmo works ok?
Good improvement?
Looks fairly easy to fit too.
Lets get a look at the AFRs.

Hooks

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 12:08 am 
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31GUN wrote:
So, your spark gizmo works ok?
Good improvement?
Looks fairly easy to fit too.
Lets get a look at the AFRs.

Yeah, I will have to plot another AFR chart methinks.

So far on the basis of that one drive on Saturday night, it seems to work really well. I can stomp the throttle to the floor at low rpm and it'll just pull smoothly, and the response just seems more...clean.

It seems to be a fairly time-honoured mod for oldschool V8s, but on the basis of the experience so far, I'd recommend it as a good mod for anyone with big carbs on a J-nostalgic with driveability problems.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 8:32 am 
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Does it work well on 4 cylinder engines? I dunno kev (im a bit duhh, when it comes to these things... :? If so, maybe ill have it listed on my future mods :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:44 pm 
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PathFindeR wrote:
Does it work well on 4 cylinder engines? I dunno kev (im a bit duhh, when it comes to these things... :? If so, maybe ill have it listed on my future mods :wink:


I think it's one of those things. If your motor is running sweet then I think it's one of those mods which might show no gains at all. But if you're a bit overcammed and overcarbed, and half your fuel shoots out your exhaust as unburnt :) then I'd say yes, it is a mod that will help.

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No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 7:35 pm 
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I run a MSD 6AL on my Alfa and it has made it much happier. I'd put it back on my Datsun if I could get it to work with my EI distributor. For what ever reason, it works great with points, and doesn't do a thing with the EI. I've tried every way possible to get it to work and I get nothing. By the way I have a B210 distributor with a Roadster drive foot attached to it. Internally its just like the Z EI setup, but with a different advance curve.

Will

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 8:07 pm 
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That's strange Will, mine is basically a 280ZX EI dizzy. I hooked it up according to the wiring diagram for Pertronix in the MSD instructions

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No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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 Post subject: GGG ... Greetings from Thailand ... GGG
PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 8:28 pm 

Joined: Sat Jun 07, 2008 2:33 am
Posts: 32
Location: Bangkok, THAILAND
Hi Kev & Friends,


Man...it's been a loooooong time since my last visit here.

How've you been Kev, I see that HAKO still gives her best for your enjoyments.


Me, I have 2 rides completed ; one took 4 years, another 4 months ... and a little change .


May I ......


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssMko-t_ ... _embedded#!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEF-v0VKHCk


No, they aren't of Japanese origin, but I'm sure you'd agree that they may sit in a little corner of your heart !


Visit me here...my site ... deals in Muscle Cars from the past......

http://musclecarthailand.com/



All the very best to you & family.

Cheers,


George Manont




.


Last edited by George Manont on Sun Aug 29, 2010 8:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 8:36 pm 
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Hey George, long time no see :D Very nice Mustang too

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No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 7:48 am 
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Lately I've been noticing something a little weird. When I reverse, I feel a bit of a muffled clunk coming from the back end. And when I'm accelerating and backing off sharply in 1st gear, I feel it again.

In the Hako, the front of the diff is hardbolted to the suspension subframe, and the back of the diff is supported by this transverse bar called the Moustache Bar, for obvious reasons. I was thinking that maybe the bushings in the ends of the moustache bar were gone, and so the back of the diff is thudding up and down against those rubber snubbers as it reacts to the torque of accel and decel.
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Datsunfreak (Technical Editor John Roper from the magazine) reckoned that the end of the moustache bar isn't meant to be sitting on the lower snubber like that, and is meant to be more like in the middle. So it looked like those bushings have to be replaced.
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Getting the moustache bar off wasn't easy...unbolting it at the bushing end is easy, but it locates to the diff via these two studs, and so the protruding studs prevent you from dropping the bar down vertically. Unbolting the front of the diff to ease it fwd's so that the studs can slide out seemed like the hard way to do it, so I decided to try to unscrew the studs by locking two nuts together, and unscrewing the inner nut. The steel stud was pretty corroded to the alloy diff casing, so this part was a bit of a pain, as it was one of those things where it was really tight to unscrew, bit by bit all the way.
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But in the end the bar's off...
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And on closer inspection the bushes do look a bit ruined, the rubber has torn clear of the metal crushtube in the middle.
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To remove the bushes, first we cut off the rubber lip that mushrooms out on one side.
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And for the next step, say hello to my little friend :) It's a 6ton hydraulic press! Basically it's just an upside down trolley jack, as you pull this lever, the piston comes down, and there is a beam and some sturdy metal plates below to brace things against. It's not a very hi-quality one, and was inexpensive (some might say...super-cheap, even..aussies will get this :D ) but I figure I'm only going to use it a few times a year to press out a few wheel bearings and suspension bushes, so it didn't make sense to buy a really expensive one.
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Take a closer look, and the bushing (yes I pushed out the centre tube just for fun) has a few concentric metal tubes. The outer one is the bushing's outer metal jacket, and the inner one is the one we will be pushing out.
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Brace the moustache bar carefully in the press, and then pick a socket that's just the right diameter to push on the metal tube of the inner bush. You'll notice that I've got clamps holding down the metal plates under the 'bar...when you're working, everything's under tremendous pressure, so the clamps are to prevent the plates from slipping out and flying across the workshop, narrowly missing your head (um...appparently).
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The press makes light work of pushing out the inner bush.
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What's left is the outer bush jacket, which is in 2 pieces, so it's easy to tap out with a chisel and hammer
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...the remains of the diff bushes.
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Then I cleaned up the inside of the tube with a wire brush
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And the new poly bushes (from SSS Automotive) just press in by hand.
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The rejuvenated moustache bar in place! You'll also notice that I didn't put the stock diff studs back in place, but I used bolts instead. So the next time, I can just take out the bolts and the moustach bar will just drop down, which will make diff removal easier too. (This was also a Datsunfreak suggestion)
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...and that's where we're at...I'll see how she drives tomorrow, but I'm sure it'll be better than it was...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:39 pm 

Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 9:22 pm
Posts: 83
Location: Japan
Kev,

can I ask, are all Hakosuka owners as hands on as you?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:49 pm 
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BigWillieStyles wrote:
Kev,

can I ask, are all Hakosuka owners as hands on as you?


I'd say all of the aussie Hako owners are pretty handy with the spanners. Three coupes are currently undergoing owner-performed restorations, Nathan of course built my engine, and of the remaining guys, my mates Greg and Jim are pretty experienced home mechanics.

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:05 am 
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I put poly bushes in my HR31 and got a fair but of clunk.
Better than totally chopped out rubber ones though.
My LSD is pretty tight on the other hand, so yours will sound good intil you buy that Nismo diff :D

Hooks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:15 am 
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Yeah I was driving to work today, and I'd say that 95% of the clunk is gone, but occasionally as you move off from standstill you do still feel a little bit of clunk, even with the new bushes.

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 4:53 pm 
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You know there's another set of these bushes in the crossmember at the front of the diff, where they bolt up to the body out near the rocker. You might also take a look at those just in case. :wink:

And if they look iffy, I know a little trick that is better than replacing them. 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:07 am 
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all my subarus use the same exact bushings, in fact I know what bushings your talking about datsunfreak cause my 76 has them there too, so I guess I will have to listen up about this too cause it might help me later on when I am working on replacing those bushings :)

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datsunfreak wrote:
Or does he need help jiggling it? :P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 10:39 pm 
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Lately I've been noticing a bit of a rattle from the exhaust when I start her up, and when I tap the pipes with a hammer, it does seem like maybe one of the baffles inside are loose. So it's out with the old :)

The old setup was a Trust Dual, which is to say that the headers go from six into two, and then there are two separate pipes all the way down the car, that don't merge until they enter a common rear muffler. In fact, back in the early 70s, Trust was the supplier for some of the Nissan Sports Corner exhaust systems, and their dual systems for the older Nissans were still available until quite recently.
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So really, it's like two 3cyl, 1 '3/4 inch exhaust systems running in parallel. This was the original design of the 2000GT-R exhaust, and back in the day the optional Sports Corner street and race systems followed the same format. So to this day, Japanese aftermarket systems for the Hako are almost always dual systems like this.
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After a bit of discussion, one option was to fit a 2.5in single system. My initial thoughts were that from a cross section area point of view, the existing twin 1.75in setup would have more cross sectional area than a single 2.5in. But the guys at Castle Hill Exhaust pointed out that all six cylinders don't fire at the same time, so each "puff" of exhaust would be less restricted if it had a 2.5in tunnel to flow down, and it would be significantly less restrictive than the current setup. Good point....but eventually we decided to follow the original twin pipe format, but in a bigger 2inch size. So it all starts with this Genie twin entry muffler.
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First, the old pipes were removed, and the Trust flange cut off and welded to a pair of 2in pipes that lead to two 12in resonators. The collectors on the Trust headers were 2in, too.
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A new bung was welded on for the wideband sensor...
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Going neatly all the way back...
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To the new muffler.
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CHE did a great job, and I'm very happy with it. The Trust system was very good in the sense that it was very quiet, in fact most of the time the exhaust note was drowned out by the induction noise. But the new system is certainly a bit louder and has a much more crackly, snarly tone to it :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHZMJliUk60

And the overall appearance is still close to the original, too. I need to drive it a bit more, but so far it seems to have uncorked the top end power a little, which is a good thing and it has a really nice bark to it when it's in the powerband. Much more rude, anti-social and uncouth, and well-suited to the car :D
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...more mods to come in the next couple of days :D

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datsunfreak wrote:
No Kev, you are eating a duck fetus.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 11:28 pm 
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Location: Napa Ca
The new system sounds just right. Very few things beat the sound of a straight 6 with a good exhaust system. (Now that I think of it, only a V12 sounds better, even then only the type that fly. In other words a Rolls Royce or Packard Merlin, Rolls Royce Griffon or an Allison V1710 :D ) There is just something about the ripping silk sound of a well built and tuned straight 6 with a free flowing exhaust when it comes on cam.

Will

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1959 Alfa Romeo 101.02 Sprint (big project)
1969 Alfa Romeo 105.51 GTV (R.I.P)
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 9:21 pm 

Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 9:16 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Sydney Australia
Man all i can say is...this is possibly the best build thread ever...i've just joined but i've been following this build for a couple of months...can't get enough of it....from one sydney-ite to another, on'ya kev

BUt one question i did want to ask is..how much did that custom exhaust set you back..i've been considering one for my ride...and i don't have any real measure of what it might cost.


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