My AN600s

8803 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 24, 2011 6:33 pm

I have (2) Honda AN600's which I found in an alley. $00!! One runs and the other has no roof and a broken timming chain. I am posting this picture to draw attention to the breather tubes in the valve cover. I have never seen these on any Honda of this type. Any thoughts.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z201 ... G_0316.jpg

vwdmc16 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 28, 2011 12:09 am

rather odd, the engine would only need more crank case breathing if there was a tone of blowby

8803 · **Posted:** Sat May 07, 2011 2:34 pm

I have been puzzling over how to test my brakes with a totally non functional MC. Here is my solution. I am still a few brakelines away form a true test.
I went to pick a part and got a MC from an earily Mazda. I then hacked out an adaptor from 1/2" alum bar stock.

The resulting fitment somewhat surprized me. Everything clears and nothing was modified on the car.

vwdmc16 · **Posted:** Sat May 07, 2011 3:14 pm

NICE, pretty much what I did with my Z brakes

Douglass · **Posted:** Wed Jun 15, 2011 8:38 am

For around 100.00 and a rebuild kit you can have your MC resleaved and it will work perfect again.

http://honda600sedan.blogspot.com/

8803 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 16, 2011 8:20 am

Douglass wrote:

For around 100.00 and a rebuild kit you can have your MC resleaved and it will work perfect again.

http://honda600sedan.blogspot.com/

This was a $20 and a few hours method of testing the overall system. It was done without hacking up the car.

8803 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 23, 2011 11:26 am

My solution to a to a totally damaged coil/plug wires

This is an 80's GM DIS coil. I can be a direct replacement for Honda coil.

I added this Ford remote TFI for fun and because it uses the points as a switch only. Very low current no wear.

Here it is mounted in the same location as original coil. All parts came from the "boneyard" at under $20.

Norcal510 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:49 am

Very inovative. Keep them coming. :tu:

Jfbrink · **Posted:** Mon Jul 25, 2011 10:13 am

I can attest to the fact that the car fires right up and runs smooth with this custom ignition setup. It's a sweet solution to the problem of a dead stock coil and should provide improved performance, without the hassle of going over to full electronic ignition -- this runs off the stock points with the only modification being the removal of the condenser.

I don't think he even had to adjust them and it started right up.

Jesse.

Douglass · **Posted:** Tue Jul 26, 2011 12:45 pm

Got any part numbers on these or year make model? Great inovation for sure.

8803 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 26, 2011 8:02 pm

Douglass wrote:

Got any part numbers on these or year make model? Great inovation for sure.

Go to your local bone yard for the parts. The coil is on all 90's V6 Gm cars. There is a pack of (3) on the left side of the engine. Remove (1) coil and the longest plug wire and the shortest plug wire. I removed (2) of the module male terminals by just yanking them form the base housing. Solder wires to them and plug them in the back of the coil. Once you see the coil at the junk yard you will understand what I am saying. Pot leads with silicone to avoid shorts. The module is hard to get appart because it has very small hex screws. Bring ignition size sockets with you and small vise grips. Jeggs and Simmit also sell a red competition version of the oem coil.
The remote TFI is a Ford part same period. Look on the picture for motorcraft PN. Get the remote one because it has its own heat sink. It to is on the left facing the motor. on fender wall. The Ford one triggers on the switch to ground so it functions just like the points. Remove the stock condensor from the curcuit. Not needed because the current will now be very low. I paid less than $10 for each part.

David

Snow · **Joined:** Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:56 pm **Posts:** 24

dam nice find!

pretty innovating what your doing! keep it goin ^^

Douglass · **Posted:** Fri Jul 29, 2011 4:41 am

8803 wrote:

Douglass wrote:

Got any part numbers on these or year make model? Great inovation for sure.

Go to your local bone yard for the parts. The coil is on all 90's V6 Gm cars. There is a pack of (3) on the left side of the engine. Remove (1) coil and the longest plug wire and the shortest plug wire. I removed (2) of the module male terminals by just yanking them form the base housing. Solder wires to them and plug them in the back of the coil. Once you see the coil at the junk yard you will understand what I am saying. Pot leads with silicone to avoid shorts. The module is hard to get appart because it has very small hex screws. Bring ignition size sockets with you and small vise grips. Jeggs and Simmit also sell a red competition version of the oem coil.
The remote TFI is a Ford part same period. Look on the picture for motorcraft PN. Get the remote one because it has its own heat sink. It to is on the left facing the motor. on fender wall. The Ford one triggers on the switch to ground so it functions just like the points. Remove the stock condensor from the curcuit. Not needed because the current will now be very low. I paid less than $10 for each part.

David

Great info, thanks for the detailed description!

8803 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 09, 2011 8:34 pm

I am hoping to do more of these. Let me know if they are of any help or subscribe.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBep6ww4W68

8803 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 04, 2012 7:31 pm

Here is the latest of many things I am building for my AN600. I recently saw a header someone had put on their 600 and decided to do my own. I managed to build this to a formula I found on the web and in text book on header and exhaust design. The primaries are done except for tig welding. I now need to design a collector to bring it down to a single 1.5" pipe. The primaries are 34" long and 1.38 in diameter. The collector will be 4.5" inches long. I have to keep the (2) pipes separate from each other to get the in and out of the engine bay.

2stroketurbo · **Posted:** Thu Mar 15, 2012 9:59 am

8803 wrote:

I have been puzzling over how to test my brakes with a totally non functional MC. Here is my solution. I am still a few brakelines away form a true test.
I went to pick a part and got a MC from an earily Mazda. I then hacked out an adaptor from 1/2" alum bar stock.

The resulting fitment somewhat surprized me. Everything clears and nothing was modified on the car.

Do you remember which Mazda? GLC or RX7? I'd like to try this swap. thanks! :tu:

2stroketurbo · **Posted:** Thu Mar 15, 2012 10:04 am

Douglass wrote:

For around 100.00 and a rebuild kit you can have your MC resleaved and it will work perfect again.

http://honda600sedan.blogspot.com/

I heard rebuild kits are obsolete, someone told me I could adapt the rubber parts from a 1973 CVCC kit. I have not tried yet. Any chance you'd spill the beans on where you found your real Honda 600 MC rebuild kit ?

8803 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:54 am

In answer to both above questions.

The MC came from a 1993 Mazda 323. What your are looking for is the short span between the flange mounting holes and the small diameter end that fits into the adapter. My goal was to not modify or damage the car firewall. With this setup I can go back to original parts with a little wrenching.

Here is a source for complete sleeved masters or rebuild kits.
http://www.honda600carparts.com/brakes.html

2stroketurbo · **Posted:** Sun Apr 15, 2012 8:09 am

How does the Mazda 323 MC work in real time ? sometimes the proportioning and or the brake feel is different depending on application. Do the brake lines need adaption?

Yes I found that Honda 600 site. , lots of great stuff there, $ 217 for a MC is spendy.....so tempting just to charge it.....since, I'm doing 4 cars at once I would be a POOR man .

Thank you for your help BTW.

8803 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 15, 2012 8:54 am

2stroketurbo wrote:

How does the Mazda 323 MC work in real time ? sometimes the proportioning and or the brake feel is different depending on application. Do the brake lines need adaption?

Yes I found that Honda 600 site. , lots of great stuff there, $ 217 for a MC is spendy.....so tempting just to charge it.....since, I'm doing 4 cars at once I would be a POOR man .

Thank you for your help BTW.

This car has only seen the driveway. So I have no idea what a street panic stop would be like. The lack of vacuum assist could be a problem as well. I the drive is stops fine. I have been fighting rear slave cylinder leaks but when all is good and correctly bled the peddle is rock hard.
I used N600 10mx1.25 on car end and 10mx1.00 on the M/C end. Flaring is a challenge because the Honda lines like to split at the seam.

My AN600s

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