I continued with the rear-axle disasembly and i've come pretty far, even if progress is seriously slow. i think that's the disadvantage when you don't have a clue what you're doing
Anyway i need your help once again:
1) How can i remove these two bushings (marked blue) on the rear arms?
2) How can i remove the center Wheel-Hub lock bolt (marked green)

I tried a lot of different things but nothing works - Argh. so i thought i might ask before i destroy something expensive seriously..

arrrrr yes the blue ones I had to take mine to a machine shop to be machined out and then i bought brand new pins, You can try heating them to get them out. some times they can come out in a press but mine would not budge..
The hub nut in yellow will come easy if you can get your hands on a rattle gun if not maybe try anchor it in a bench vice. The thing on your steering rack is a dampener to stop the rack twisting

Sometimes you do something, break something and then think about how you should have done it right.. that's what i actually did a few times now Three days of work short:
Day 1 - Thursday: The Spindle Pin lock bolt pain:
Everything started easy - removed a lot of brackets, mounts and brake-lines / Hoses:










Now here's where trouble started: The Spindle Pin lock bolt (in the Center): Curiously it's mounted the other way then mentioned in the Manual (See below) so i wasn't really sure how to get it out...




Tried to hammer it out but didn't work. It made me angry so i put a lot of penetrating oil to it and let it soak overnight..

Day 2 - Friday: The Spindle pin pain:
Well after hammering hard i finally got that damn spindle pin security bolt out - as you see it was mounted the wrong way previously:


removed some drum-brake hardware as well:


Now next problem: How can i disconnect the spindle-pin that holds the Rear lower control arm bars together with the rear suspension bases? tried a lot of things until i gave up and decided to ask around first before i destroy more (See last post also)


Day 3 - Saturday: Finally success by doing it the "raw" way:
Decided to start with something different. My Friend Stefan borrowed me a set of his suspension spring removal tools (Thank's mate!), so i removed all the suspension springs from the dampers first (Front and rear, pictures shows only front - sorry...)






Now back to the spindle pin:
Alex Straffin from the Dirty S30 Blog (Check it out) told me there's a special tool for the Spindle pin removal - see his post about how it's used: http://dirtys30.blogspot.com/2011/02/how-to-240z-spindle-pin-removal.html#uds-search-results

But finally i wanted to get it done soon and i wasn't really in mood to buy a tool from overseas again.. i googled... and i found this (really terrible but simple) way to do it:
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html

And then i had to decide... I've destroyed one of the spindle pin's threads anyway, because i tried to hammer it out first on friday.. (argh..)


so i thought i'll have to replace them both anyway, so why don't just cut them apart like described in the link above?


Yeah! They're apart


Had to hammer the pin out then (Wasn't too easy..) and here you have it - in three pieces:


So that's how work looked at the end of today's three hours of work


Next problem: How to get the bushings out uf the rear control arms. but i allready have some ideas (like using a saw or burn them out, etc.. you'll see ). proably even the mashine-shop at my work have a press to push 'em out. and regarding the center wheel-hub lock bolt (See last post) i'll try to get a local garage with a big rattle-gun to turn them out - we'll see thanks all for your help and even if it's not the most beautiful way to do things. im pretty happy with the results

glad to see the project still alive
my friend I will give you a little advice, whenever something won't come off and you intend to use brute force; just don't do it; you'll be surprised that that thing can be taken easily somewhat, ask me
I destroyed my drag link ( center link) of my datsun 200l and now either buy a rare one( no one sells it) or try to fix it somewhat ( folling my self). lastly a tip from a parts shop manager "use a block of wood on the thing you want to hammer so that the metal surface won't get damaged.

I wanted to tell that some people used a punch on the tip of the rod that you hacked sawed to drive it out without taking much damage

if his was any thing like mine, It would not budge no matter what we did to get it out.. even after being soaked in penatriene and using heat.
The engineer and a very good one at that ended up cutting mine out as in the photo above

Yeah of course you're both right. It's allways better to try it the "safe" way and keep things nice. but in this case it was just much easier and faster. the tool costs 50$ a brand new Nissan spindle pin costs 30$.

And i bet in this case you where not possible to get the spindle pin out with the special tool. trust me - i tried everything, and even with the whole stuff soaked in penetration-oil the whole night (re-sprayed a few times!) and with the spindle pin cut apart it still needed some serious hammering on the Pin (used a screw to get inside) to get that damn thing out and if you read around in the internet, im definitly not the only one having this problem

So i think im satisfied with the results using my method (in my case, of course)

On we go Wanted to do as much as possible today, and that's what i did. for all other works i need to buy special tools, or help from a machine shop or garage.. But im happy with todays result of 2 hours of work:
1) Started to unbolt the suspension damper nuts (wrong tool i know, but didn't have tools so big..)


Surprise, surprise: Found these Belgian-made Monroe aftermarked dampers in the rear:


and these Tokico where in the front (genuine maybe? don't know..). Will replace all dampers anyway..


2) Hammered out the rear wheel studs then (Sorry for the blurry pic)


3) Started to unbolt the Front brake disks fron the wheel bearing (as you can see - a lot of spiderwebs. they' haven't been in use for a long time )


and removed:


4) after hammering out the front wheel studs (sorry, forgot to make a picture, same as rear) i started to remove the rear drum brake slave cylinder (or what this thing is called):




and finally - all the stuff out!! You can see i wasn't able to remove the suspension damper on one side, even if i soaked it in penetration oil through the night and resprayed today. Will need to buy a 51mm wrench tomorrow so i can handle this soon.. stay tuned

put the nut in a bench vice and turn the strut housing. you can put a steel pipe on the pin at the end of the strut if it wont come off.

_________________
Japanseklassiekers!

1970 C30 Laurel
1972 240Z
1973 610 Wagon
1977 260Z
1995 Micra
1999 200SX

Hmm, that's a good idea - never crossed my mind I will buy the Wrench anyway (because one day i have to but it back together when everything is freshly powdercoated ) but if it won't go off i'll try your version - sounds good and simple

Hi there. Just placed an order for this lovely genuine brand-new Kakimoto 3100 Valve cover over at Kakimoto japan a few days ago. Sadly they told me they don't have it in stock and will only start to produce a small amount again if they get about 10-20 orders. So if anyone is seriously interrested (this thing costs about 1000$ shipped) and has the money, please let me know. if we get enough interrested people together i'll contact you all with more information! Would be great!! I really need this





large Picture installed (click link, too large for this website...)
http://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Kakimoto-Valve-Cover.jpg

More information on the kakimoto site:
http://www.kakimotoracing.co.jp/04-00_engineparts/04-02_engineparts_l.html

Are you going with a white/blue theme by any chance?

_________________
-Cam
1988 Mazda RX7
1980 Toyota Celica
a bunch of cool other cars I'm not allowed to list

yeah, i thought of a white car with some blue accents and the golden wheels in my avatar. The design was actually based on a early idea with the kakimoto valve cover. that's the reason i really need it (i know there are others blue ones, but no one is as cool as the classic kakimoto racing style )

ehr...

one thousand dollars for a valve cover? what does it do, besides covering your valves?

_________________
Japanseklassiekers!

1970 C30 Laurel
1972 240Z
1973 610 Wagon
1977 260Z
1995 Micra
1999 200SX

it give's the car so much character
it's a bit below thousand dollars (just wanted interrested guys to know it's expensive, specially on the current currency-rates)
and it's so cool i just want it - doesn't depend what it costs

but of course you're right, i can spend a lot money on other good stuff. but actually i think i'll do that, so why not buy an ultra-cool valve-cover as the ice on the cake?

a friend of mine has one of those on his garage wall here in australia. he didnt fit it to his car because he didnt like the look of it. neither do i rely they are to boxy

sent you a PM

Sadly it wasn't the same valve cover. so if someone still is interrested in the kakimoto - let me know. I still need one

Today i went to the local tire shop which is owned by an older guy who was a rallye mechanic in an old MINI rallye team years ago and has a quite cool collection of small old UK cars.. sadly i forgot to take the camera with me.. anyway. While i tried about an hour to remove the center rear wheel bearing nuts with no success they where able to remove it within a few seconds with a rattle gun at (at full torque setting ). Great


Now on the other hand even they wheren't able to remove the front suspension damper nut (you remember, that one that was stuck) i've tried a few different things like heating, soaked it a few nights in penetrating oil and mounetd the nut at my work bench, nothing worked. the guys at the shop didn't have big enough tools big enough either, so they recommanded me to go to a truck shop who might have bigger tools. Ok - i'll do that on monday. tomorrow i'll be off to some interresting "red bull race day" - expect a full feature on my blog (http://www.JDMjunkies.ch)
And that's what i did yesterday - nothing important, but saves a bit space on the shelve

yeh sorry about that..It was the same shape. just different lettering. it was a long time since i had seen it

No Problem - don't worry about that and thanks for your help anyway

somehow the two last posts got lost in here?? here they are again:
Let's start yesterday: i took the stuck front suspension to a local Bus-Garage and they didn't have a 51mm wrench either, but they hat some serious big tube-wrench and a very strong looking guy there, so he was able to upen up the stuck nut in no time
Last suspension damper now removed:

Today i decided to continue with the rear wheel bearings, but after i removed the center lock nut:

and these nuts (i think they only secure the rear shield):

i wasn't able to remove the bearing so i decided to ask and take a look at the Manual before i use that hammer again and destroy something
So i decided to switch to the fun part: Remove the rubber bushings from the control arms:
Before:

removed the Screw and heated the whole rubber stuff with a little propane-torch until it began to burn on its own:

After that it was no problem to remove the inner Metal-sleeve with a plier. And after the inner sleeve is removed it was no problem to remove the rubber-bushing with a crappy screwdriver. Not the most proffessional method but works fine

I decided to keep the outer sleeve there at the moment, because it seems that some aftermarket bushing kits require the genuine outer sleeve installed so before i decide which bushing-kit i use i save them. if i don't need them i'll cut them out.
Ded the same at the rear:

will need to do the same procedure on the moustache bar bushings, but i saved that job for another day
And that's how i ended up today - soon ready for a sandblast and powder-coat job: