1975 C110 (KHGC110 240K) Build

Adzmax · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 6:31 pm

Thanks guys, it's been a lot of fun so far.

This process isn't actually vacuum metallizing, it's an electro plating process the same as they use on metal parts. The plastic is prepared with a conductive coating and then copper/nickel plated and them chrome plated. The resulting finish is a lot more durable than vacuum metalisation.

I had my parts done by this company is South Australia, Australia. They are very good at what they do

http://www.aclassmetal.com.au/plating-o ... torers.php

ericbauer · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:50 pm

Oh wow - you're really going full bore... Good stuff!

hrc rr · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:18 pm

nice attention to detail adzmax, also cool to see people stick with genuine original than aftermarket parts

i joined up on here just to ask,

how do you buy your parts from Yahoo Japan Auctions? i found not only was the language an obstacle, but it seems sellers over there don't want to deal with off shore buyers. do you have an in-between you speak to, or can you speak Japanese so you're able to convince sellers to ship to Aus?

thanks!

ericbauer · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:43 pm

You've got multiple sources to choose from that will serve as an in between you & the japanese sellers including rhdjapan.com, Adam
@ feast (far east auto), & many others

Adzmax · **Posted:** Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:47 pm

You really need someone IN Japan for you or you require a 3rd party site. I use Import Monster here in Australia, Aaron and the team are fantastic.

http://www.importmonster.com.au/

Adzmax · **Posted:** Tue May 15, 2012 5:13 am

I had these door skins (cards) delivered from Japan last week. They are in pretty good condition overall but will need some work. They are from a late model GTX and had the extended arm rests which have been filled. The finish leaves a bit to be desired but it's nothing that can't be fixed. I'll drop them into the Auto trimmer I'm using this week.

Adzmax · **Posted:** Thu May 17, 2012 8:30 pm

After getting my tail light rings back from chroming the next parts to do were the fuel cap and breather.

I pulled apart the fuel cap completely so I could send the cover alone. The pin in held in place with a small cir-clip, once removed it just slides out with the spring etc. I'm going to look at fixing the lock up also, it's pretty sloppy. Not sure what the options are here at the moment.

Just got the parts back today and they look great.

Next I need to mask them off then respray the parts that should be black. No doubt this will be a fiddly job because the top of the fins need to be chrome. I'll have to wipe the paint of by hand with a cotton tip and some thinners after it's sprayed. I'd LOVE to know how this was done from factory

I've also got some centre caps coming which I'll mask with the "R" logo and then spray in a metallic black to complete the original look.

ericbauer · **Posted:** Thu May 17, 2012 9:14 pm

How about brushing on rubber cement on the fins?

It's easily removable (rub off) after you paint and less tedious than tape-ing up each fin?

Adzmax · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2012 11:22 pm

What I was thinking was just mask off the main area's, so around the edges and centre and then just wipe the tops of the fins with some thinners after it's sprayed. It's doing to be fiddly either way :roll:

They should look like these -

Adzmax · **Posted:** Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:01 pm

Work has been incredibly busy so I haven't found much time to do any work on the car recently. Last night I finally found time to complete the tail light rings and breather/fuel caps. Masking them was a pretty fiddly task as there are many small faces and lots of angles.

Once the parts were fully masked off Troy hit them with some 3M adhesion promoter to help the paint stick to the chrome surface and then a 2 part black with flat clear. Then I had to use some thinners and cotton tips to remove paint off the top of the fins.

Then time for some dinner. Troy's shop is just down the road from one of the best Curry shops I've been to, and they make a great curry pizza too!

So finally these parts are complete, they now look brand new again, much nicer than the way they started out.

Before -

After -

Now all I need is some replacement centre caps. I'm not sure if I'll get these from City Auto in Japan or make them yet....

kev · **Posted:** Sun Jun 24, 2012 4:06 am

Pretty spectacular results, mate

Adzmax · **Posted:** Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:13 am

I dug out this gem tonight. I picked it up from Japan a few years ago as new old stock. It suffered some minor damage in storage, a couple of scuffs on the paint work. We tried using some thinners to clean off the paint scuffs and the original paint wiped straight off. It turns out The original paint is acrylic (duh...) so its a bit of a blessing in disguise, I'd much rather repaint the whole piece in 2 pack and match the over fenders and grill. The thing I'm most pleased about is that having this part will allow us to colour match to factory spec.

Camshaft · **Posted:** Tue Jun 26, 2012 11:03 am

Nice work on the fuel cap! :tu:

Those door panels look more than serviceable as well.

ctcurnes · **Posted:** Tue Jun 26, 2012 4:40 pm

Hey Adz,

When you get the rear panel color match. Please post the formula here and on Classiczcars. The paint code is a mystery that has yet to be solved.

Thank you in advance.

Chris

kev · **Posted:** Tue Jun 26, 2012 4:46 pm

Those c-pillar trims turned out awesome...I have been thinking of getting some of this stuff, to do the interior plastichrome (like the chrome strips on the door cards): http://www.alsacorp.com/products/mirrac ... chrome.htm

Anyone had any experience with this?

Adzmax · **Posted:** Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:28 pm

Thanks guys, I'm really happy with the finish on parts so far.

The door trims are pretty good but they are not up to standard so I'm going to replace them. I took them to my auto trimmer he felt that while they are nice, we are best to remake the whole interior form scratch to keep the finish and pattern consistent. I'm going to sell them.

No problems regarding the paint code, I'm more that happy to let you know what we find out.

The door trims are tough hey Kev, there is no way to chrome them seeing they are attached to the skins. I've not had any experience with these products. Providing the job is prepared and masked properly I can't see why it wouldn't be possible to at least get a nice metallic finish. How good the chrome look is would be dependent on the product. I'd be keen to know though

kev · **Posted:** Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:37 pm

I've been meaning to give that stuff a try on the door cards for years

It's pretty dear tho, $300 (IIRC) from VP Paints, but I suppose that one kit will probably do all the plastic chrome in the cabin and then some

Adzmax · **Posted:** Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:32 am

Pricey but if it works, it's sure worth it! And you're right, you could do your car once over and have plenty left

ylwgtr2 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 29, 2012 2:35 am

hey ho ole rusty will ive to fight another day!Just thought id clear up some things....the adhesion promoter is a dupont product call 222s.Also in regards to the alsa stuff i have that stuff here also,its not really that great.There are a few products out there that get the same results as the alsa stuff....one made in australia is mirror chrome by DNA.I spose it would be ok on small parts but it goes a bit milky when you put the clear over the top....i have heard of guys tinting off the clear with a touch of blue to wake it up a bit....i had some pictures of an old triumph bonneville i painted in it....i cant find them...you paint the part in gloss black first,bake it....make sure its faultless then you haze the lightest coat of this stuff on,then clear it

Adzmax · **Posted:** Sun Jul 01, 2012 7:51 pm

Thanks Troy

1975 C110 (KHGC110 240K) Build

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