you might want to use something else than a rubber hammer on the 'ikea' tool
it is better to put a piece of pipe over it to extend it so you are able to put more force on it than tapping it with a rubber mallet.

_________________
Japanseklassiekers!

1970 C30 Laurel
1972 240Z
1973 610 Wagon
1977 260Z
1995 Micra
1999 200SX

good thing the balancer came off.
what kind of godzilla arm you have to crush the poor ratchet
your allen key way of opening the head bolts is not safe as you won't get much force with it and you may damage the hex shape in the bolt head (then there is no use of it); So here is a trick I kind of used:
1- take the 10 mm allen key and cut it straight at the 90 angle.
2- use a 10 mm hex socket (long socket is better for more grip) and put the allen you cut in it.
3- put the other side of the allen in the head bolt and there you go.. this way you can use ratchets and torque wrenches without problem.

as for the cam gear bolt, there should be some kind of squares in the middle of the cam, use and adjustable wrench(not a monkey wrench or you could be very sorry) slide it at an angle like this

and turn the cam until you rest the wrench handle on the head (use a block of wood in between as a precaution for the alloy head). then use a breaker bar with a hex socket (don't use 12 point sockets) and twist gently, it should loosen right away.

@ datsun200l: Thanks for your great advice and inputs, mate!

Today i got really a lot done within probably one hour. Despite the fact i've never touched an engine before im really happy with todays' results:
1) Removed the cam gear nut:


and the cam gear:


2) finally i was able to remove the cylinder head:


I'm no specialist on this, but i feel the pistons look quite a bit "burnt" but not really damaged or something. Also it doesn't look like it has been honed or something. Looks quite original inside:


3) Same thing on the cylinder head side:






4) Then removed the cylinder head gasket. all of the gaskets feel really brittly and shit:


also you can see more of that nasty old water-shit inside the cooling channels. need to figure out how i can clean it. maybe some ultrasonic-bath or something:


5) then removed what must be the oil pump:


6) the crank seal


7) and finally the timing cover:


Chain & Chain tensioner removed:


9) view on the bottom-end:


10) and finally removed that "primary oil filter" and cleand all from old gasket-pieces, grease, oil and stuff:

good job there my friend
better put the head on something around the edges, you don't want a bent valve

the block seems ok, but it looks like the tips of the bores are worn a lot, due to piston top, can you measure the tops (the brown rings) to know how much wear in the bores and if they been bored before.

I bet the head number is E31 since this is an early 240Z.

what's the plan now with the engine (normal overhaul or overhaul with little more hp)

Thanks for your Advice mate, you're very helpful
will take measures on the bores etc next few days and post here

I am planning a beefed up version, but probably even will swap for an L28, but have to check with the difficult swiss law first if it's legal or not.

It's an E30 head on an L24 Block, i posted it earlier and someone mentioned it's not a standard combination that was sold like this so that's a bit weird..
Have to check a few options first and talk to the engine builder first, what possibilities i have and what makes sense.

If you like you can of course donate me an OS-Giken TC24-B1 Engine

Had a few minutes left today so off to the garage

1) Got a pretty nice delivery from Alison at BRE (Brock racing enterprises)
one of 500 HQ prints of a classic BRE celebration poster, Hand signed by Peter brock himself - Love it! (Will post better pictures, as soon as i got a frame for it):


Plus a little message - thanks guys at BRE, great and fast service!!


2) then started work at the car - removed ignition plugs:


Some of them where white, others brown, others black - weird.. Added a little wood support to not bend the valves while it's sitting there:


3) Decided to remove that nasty rusty old water stuff that was inside the water channels..
Before:


and after tooling around 15 minutes with a dremel and a rubber wire wheel.. way better but still needs a lot of detailing

if you have it cleaned that will all come of, saves you a lot of work

_________________
Japanseklassiekers!

1970 C30 Laurel
1972 240Z
1973 610 Wagon
1977 260Z
1995 Micra
1999 200SX

what is your suggestion to clean it the best way? it's almost like rust, really difficult to remove, but works well with a dremel and a ruber wire-wheel

just a tip
don't use any and I mean any chemicals on the alloy head or the front cover, both are made from aluminum, and will react to every thing starting high grade acids down to house hold bleach, ammonia, even drinking water. your best bet is to use some diesel fuel in a bath and let the parts sit over night, that should take the grime off easily and blast it with compressed air. although I don't own one but sandblasters are bad with alloy so don't sand blast them either............................ long tip ha

tackle the engine block before the head and dismantle it, its lot easier than the head.
1. make sure that the crank is turned properly, and rod bolts facing up.
2. use extra caution not to round them (spray WD-40 before hand).
3. make sure that some one is holding his hand with something like cotton to catch the piston.
4. using a hammer handle (take some electrical tape a wrap it round the whole wooden handle (you don't want wooden fragments in your block .
5. push the tip of handle to the piston skirt and press gently.
6. repeat with piston on the same stroke.
7. turn the crank.

Im a bit busy today so no big work this saturday, but still managed to find a few free minutes for the car:

1) Scraped off some old cylinder head gasket stuff with a spatula:


2) Measured the cylinder top bore, and largest i measured was 82,92mm. Actually i didn't find any information on the standard bore on the quick (have to search for it) and on the other hand i don't know if i even used right method and tools to measure this. probably not

Just a short update:
1) Got a frame for the BRE Poster with Pete Brook's sign and hanged it next to my diecast-collection:


2) got the fender mirrors ready for a sandblast and paint:

any update bro??

I was on a business trip for 2 weeks and just returned, but hopefully i'm able to get some stuff done this week, have a lot of other things to handle.
Check out my blog ( www.JDMjunkies.ch ) for all of my projects and other car related stuff

If you start thinking it is too cold over there [im in Australia and it's winter so it's cold by my standards (8 degrees celcius)] i'll just leave this here....
http://zombiehunters.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=71824
Just make sure to read the whole thread as he makes some changes to it by the end. No login needed to view.
Yeah ... don't ask why im on a website dedicated to the survival of a zombie apocalypse... okay i'll tell you i'm 15 and have no:
Job
Car
Project
and its school holidays over here.
and I think it would be kinda cool to be in a zombie apocalypse, mad max style, except with datsuns!
Dchil15

_________________
Dchil15

Too poor to own a car, I need a job!

Yeah i finally found a little time to spend on the Zedd again and one thing i have been looking up to for a while has been the fuel tank disassembly, to see if i can reuse the fuel tank or need a new one... Before:


Up on closer inspection i found this "Derendinger" Sticker. It's a swiss company specialized in refurbishing OEM parts or selling aftermarket parts. lets see what's up with this later..


Removed the "Swimmer" thingy first:


Pretty corroded and i think it' needs replacement:


Took a closer look to the inside:


Minor surface rust, green corrosion and black sticky 15 year old fuel on the bottom...


Definitly needs some rework but i think it's in good shape for refurbishment!
At the end i also wanted to check the outside, so wire-wheeled some of it and then i saw the Copper-part them seems to be from a previous repair done by Derendinger. But allthough the basig substance looks great! And just figured out Deredinger are still refurbishing fuel tanks so probably i'll leave it there for some reworking soon

Nils, please tell me if you have a quote from them, I'm interested for my tank too.

_________________
1973 euro 240Z

haven't made a quote or even contacted them so far, have some other priorities right now, but i'll definitly let you know as soon as i have a price or information! Otherwise you just can call them or drop in at your local Derendinger shop. there are also some companies specialized in Gas-tank and Radiator repairs, but they're hella expensive...

The 240Z Project is quite slow actully, because it's summertime, i need to save some money for car related stuff and also need to figure out how to continue with a few things.
At least i should get a few new parts soon...
Now remember that ma complete rear was destroyed by a little crash from the prevous owner and also by the fact someone earlier tried to weld in some different taillight-housings?:


So i wondered what's the best solution to fix that, until i recently figured out the entire taillight panel as well as the rear bumper is one piece according to the parts catalogue:


Eeven found a picture of a complete item. Now i need one. haven't seen replica pieces and i assume this one is extremly hard to find.. well, let's hope


I even found a manual how to remove the old complete rear panel here:
http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/p ... e_faq.html
This is how it looks when removed (not my car luckily )

So if anyone knows where i can get the entire rear panel, or what the genuine part number is
please let me know!! this would bring me a huge step forward!

From the part catalogue, the part number you are looking for is 79100 E4650. Try ordering it from Nissan in Switzerland, otherwise Google found this: http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts/ni ... e4650.html

_________________
1973 euro 240Z

Fourways Engineering in the UK have the whole replacement rear panels. Give them a call/email. They even had the panel listed with a price on their website until very recently but they've *just* updated it all, and the listing has vanished.

Get in contact with them, they can help

http://www.fourways-engineering.co.uk/