Project fade to black- 1987 HR31 Skyline

SSS910 · **Posted:** Sun May 13, 2012 4:55 am

No increase of boost pressure lately ? check spark isnt being blown out by high boost ... maybe time for a CDI upgrade

31GUN · **Posted:** Sun May 13, 2012 4:20 pm

I think you are right on the money.
I picked up the car. Cost me $53 for the privilege of having it parked there over the weekend.
I understand they want their pound of flesh, but it's not the way I run a business.
I haven't had a chance to look at it yet but my theory that I came up with over the weekend is that it has a leak on the wastegate line and it is over boosting.
I'll have a look during my lunch break.
Stay tuned to find out if Mr SSS910 and I are right.

31GUN · **Posted:** Sun May 13, 2012 6:46 pm

This is for the lolz.

Got a big list of all the things they checked "pre dyno" to justify the $53.
Car's dusty right?
Carbon bonnet (hood) won't close if dropped, you have to push it closed.
The dust on the front of the bonnet is undisturbed.
And I told them the car has a build thread on R31sc, JNC, and PF.

Must think I am some kind of muppet.

31GUN · **Posted:** Sun May 13, 2012 11:18 pm

Aaaaaaaaall righty then.
feel a bit vindicated (and a bit of a dick but that's normal)

Opened the bonnet and saw this (excuse crap pics, shitty iphone)

So I thought 'I'm in the right area"
followed the pressure side down under the compressor and felt a little crack, then it just fell apart in my hand!

This was the problem all along.

I had to race around and fix it after work.
haven't driven it yet, just needed to get it done to drive home/pick up son.
I'll post again later this evening with the verdict.

31GUN · **Posted:** Mon May 14, 2012 1:41 am

Verdict?
Not fixed.
Even stopped on the way home and wound the boost back to standard.
No change.

kev · **Posted:** Mon May 14, 2012 1:54 am

Measure the resistance of the coil packs. Maybe every set you have, has one dud?

31GUN · **Posted:** Mon May 14, 2012 6:32 pm

I'm in the process of biting the bullet.
I will keep you posted. Expect news in the next couple of weeks.

datsun200l · **Joined:** Sun Apr 24, 2011 10:41 am **Posts:** 42

hey there,
was that hose supposed to contain hot air ??
if so and it was leaking hot air, it might damage other rubber hoses due to the emitted heat.

check the coil packs as well there might be no voltage on one of them while running.

lastly, try to clean up the ECU connections on both the ECU and the wiring plug, specially the power pin, it could be the cause of the mess :twisted:

31GUN · **Posted:** Sat May 19, 2012 3:20 am

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.
Next thing I'm doing is a compression test.
Theory is I have a dud injector.
May have caused a lean out and killed a cylinder.
See how we go tomorrow.

31GUN · **Posted:** Sun May 20, 2012 2:44 pm

The compression test results are in.

Cylinder#1

#2

#3

#4

#5

#6

All reasonable I guess. I'm not sure how to interpret these things.
#3 looks a bit down, and #5 a bit up. Experts?

Interesting thing;
in putting it back together, I put in completely different set of coil packs.
The miss has gone back to intermittent.
And it is definitely a miss.
The plot thickens.

31GUN · **Posted:** Mon May 21, 2012 3:45 am

Alrighty then.
I actually had it fixed tonight.
I thoroughly cleaned a completely different set of coil packs with silicone spray.
Put em in and took it for a drive.
No miss, so started giving it a bit of a thrashing.
10 minutes, no problems.
At around 15 minutes the miss returned.

So.
The next theory is this.
I always warm up the car thoroughly before getting up it.
Mainly because you have to rev the shit out of it to make it go.
It is around 6 degrees C here at the moment.
So whatever it is, it clags out when it gets hot.

This is pointing to the coil driver.
So I ordered this tonight.

It is a factory kit that replaces the original (25 years old) coil driver.
Should be here in 6-7 days.

31GUN · **Posted:** Wed May 23, 2012 5:31 pm

31GUN · **Posted:** Wed May 23, 2012 6:53 pm

31GUN · **Posted:** Fri Jun 01, 2012 5:04 pm

Car's fixed.
(dusts hands together)

31GUN · **Posted:** Fri Jun 01, 2012 6:44 pm

Okay.
Went to a friends house (who shall be known hereafter by the codename 'Fatz') to try a different ECU.
It didn't work because it was NICS computer and wouldn't start the fuel pump.
Aaaaaanyway, plugged mine back in , had a bit of a yack and went on my merry way only to find the thing boosting hard.
No miss.
Ring Fatz- "it's fixed".
Fatz- "what?"
Me- it's fixed. Running like a dream.
Fatz- (sound of a lot of laughter)

You can guess the rest of the conversation.

So the plan is to not touch anything, and do a track day on Friday.
If it's going to go wrong, it'll go wrong there.
But now I know where to look.

31GUN · **Posted:** Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:49 pm

Anyway, I've had it with that shit.
On to more important stuff.

Wheels.
Here is the measurement, wheel lip to guard lip, on the rear Work Ewing passenger side.

Inch and a quarter.
I compared this to the drivers side because there is some difference between the drivers and passengers side in HR31s.

Passengers 32mm

Drivers 35mm

I know these measurements are pretty accurate because I used these. Note the spirit level.

Okay, that was the rear Works.
To get the BBSs on I had to remove my hub rings as the BBSs have the correct size hub hole.

BBSs on, and here is the measurement. Just under 2 inches.

A little chat to a couple of wheel gurus and they said about 1/2 an inch of poke in the rear is okay with a 225 wide tyre.
That means I need to add 2 1/2 inches to whatever the lip is now.....

...1.5 inches, which means I need a 4" lip. This will give me a 16x10.5 +6

Should look pretty cool though.

But I will need some new wheel nuts.

Old and new.

On to the front.

As is, with the Work wheel.

And with the BBS.

Going to need a spacer. About 1mm clearance to the strut. About 5mm? Wheel experts?

To get about 1/2 an inch poke I'll need another 2 1/2 inches on the present lip which is....

...1 inch, so a 3 1/2 inch lip is about what is required which will give me a 16x9.5 +0.

Should look the ducks guts though.

Old and new fronts.

7th · **Posted:** Sat Jun 02, 2012 6:12 pm

cant wait for these wheels to get finished and put on Hooks, Will look fantastic! Are the Ewings 3 piece too?

31GUN · **Posted:** Sun Jun 03, 2012 2:55 am

No, 2 piece.
Keeping them for track wheels.

31GUN · **Posted:** Sun Jun 03, 2012 4:23 pm

I think I was getting a bit greedy on the weekend
So I crunched up numbers again.

Front.
This is the gap.

If I add 1.5 inches to the present lip (1") it will give me a 16x8.5+14
That way I can run a 5mm spacer which will give me about 5.2mm clearance to the strut in the back and it will be pretty much flush.

This rule that I have jammed between the rim and the strut is 0.5mm thick

Rear.
This is the gap.

If I add 2 inches to the existing lip (1.5") that will give me a 16x10+12

So I'll need 2x 2.5" lips for the front and 2x 3.5" lips for the rear.

Here's the good news. Lips seem to be on sale atm
http://www.tunershop.com/Wheel_acces...uter_Lips/BBS/

31GUN · **Posted:** Fri Jun 08, 2012 2:57 pm

I did a track day yesterday at Marulan Driver training Centre and on the last run of the day it broke the rear diff mount.

I lost the other bit somewhere

And here is the one the track owner Gary Wilmington (famed GroupC racer and all around good guy) made in about 15 minutes, and it fitted perfectly!

What I am going to do is clean this one up a bit, weld a gusset in the centre, and paint it.

In other news, after yesterdays track day I have decided my car is an understeering laggy pig, and I'm going to do something about it.

Project fade to black- 1987 HR31 Skyline

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